Ready for adventure in one of the world’s most remote jungles, I boarded the light aircraft in Mt Hagen with two other intrepid travellers, headed for the mountainous Highlands gateway of Karawari. The Highlands can be an intimidating place to visit but I was escorted by a reputable local tour operator: Trans Nuigini Tours, who kept me safe as they introduced me to their local community and culture.
Petrified of small planes, I was comforted by knowing our pilot Sylvester had over 20 years flying experience. Apparently pilots in PNG are some of the best in the world, expertly navigating treacherous and unpredictable conditions on a daily basis. Thankfully the weather was favourable which made for a breathtaking and smooth flight with no spew bag required. We soared low over the thick green jungles, steep mountains and cocoa coloured Sepik and Karawari rivers before our impossible landing onto a small clearing the size of a cricket pitch. The ‘airport’ was little more than a wooden hut, a lawnmower and a couple of shy (and naked) kids standing nearby to view the plane coming in. We were greeted by a funny sign that read “Karawari airport: Terminal 1”. Inaccessible by road meant flying was the only option to access this remote part of the country.
Our airport transfer was in a vehicle of scrap metal that barely held together as it cranked its way up the hill to the Kawawari Lodge. Designed in the style of traditional ‘Haus Tambaran’ or ‘Spirit House’ the lodge sat at an elevation of 300m with a wrap around balcony offering commanding views over the lowland rainforest and river. impeccably crafted using all types of timber, with shields and artefacts adorning the walls, it felt full of character and the staff were only too keen to make me feel welcome.
Touring was by boat with local guide Paul who was proud to show us through his community village. The people of the Sepik region don’t see many westerners, but nor do they really have an interest in us. They went about their daily business, almost oblivious to us and Paul encouraged us to take photos. They live in stilted houses, fish in dugout canoes, the kids splash into the water off rigged up tree ropes and the women, mostly bare breasted, were hard at work weaving baskets and making food. We observed sago making —the extraction of starch from a sago palm to turn into food. We watched as young children, no older than four, were out fishing for the daily catch. Paul introduced us to some of his clan and we were invited into their homes which were beautifully constructed using local materials. They live in an incredible place abundant with water and resources. The surrounding forest is home to over 200 bird species including the 12-wire Bird of Paradise which we were lucky enough to spot on an early morning birding expedition.
A personal highlight was participating in a traditional ‘sing sing’. This is a joyous cultural display of dance, music and costume. The kaleidoscope of bright coloured faces, women adorned with straw skirts and handmade jewellery of clam shells and feathers, men beating the kudu drums and lots of fanfare. This wasn’t staged for us visitors, it was a genuine ‘sing sing’ that we were welcome and privileged to experience. The atmosphere was electric and we were encouraged to join in. The local women loved it, they giggled as we tried unsuccessfully to replicate their dance moves.
I had three weeks in PNG traversing the country from the south in Port Moresby where I had a reluctant 3 days in a gated hotel and hiked a section of the Kokoda trail. What a brutal hike! I only did one day of the 7 day trail but had to navigate a river crossing, monsoonal afternoon downpour and lunging for hours over a paths overgrown with giant tree roots that stood up like walls. From Port Moresby, I travelled to Goroka in the Eastern Highlands and met the Mudmen of the Asaro tribe —these men wear huge masks made of mud. The story goes that they were forced off the land by another tribe so to get their land back, they dressed in these masks and covered themselves in mud to depict spirits. In PNG, people are scared of spirits, so their plan worked, the intruders fled and they reclaimed their land. Visiting the Huliwigmen of the Southern highlands was a highlight. Young men have a rite of passage of living away from women for up to 3 years whilst growing a wig and hunting for elusive Bird of Paradise feathers! They believe women zap their masculinity so they live far away as part of a bachelors cult, purifying themselves and connecting to ‘Huli’ who is their creator spirit.
I concluded my stay in the pretty coastal town of Madang for a bit of r’n’r. Traversing this country was an experience like no other. The remoteness, the lush and beautiful landscapes teeming with the most colourful flora and fauna I’d ever seen, the friendly smiles and the fascinating rituals and way of life of the local communities.
I definitely recommend travelling with a reputable tour operator and not wandering from your hotel in Port Moresby alone - the hotels are protected by high steel fences for a reason. The capital has high levels of violent crime due to ethnic unrest, unemployment and poverty. It really is unsafe and in fact many places throughout PNG felt a little intimidating for a female.
Hiking and diving are the most popular reasons for visiting but I recommend that visitors also get to the Highlands and experience the fascinating, relatively unchanged, cultures in the heartland.
Check out details at www.pngtours.com