My exploration of this lanky slice of landscape took me from the dry desert of the far north to the windswept wonders of way down south, traversing a country of extreme contrasts and profound beauty. The locals call Chile ‘Pais del Poetas’ — the country of poets, thanks to their local poet heroes Gabriela Mistral and Pablo Neruda. Chile could turn anyone into a poet. A place that is so wild and weathered, you can’t help but feel vulnerable, yet profoundly ecstatic at being free amidst such a sublime environment.
To the north sits San Pedro de Atacama in the Andes mountains. Here I stepped gently through the Valle de la luna — a vast expanse of salt flats. I watched the full moon sitting low above the mauve mountains, and a vast sky in a shade of pink as the sun set. Later that evening I sat in solitude in the courtyard of my hotel, warmed by an outdoor fire as I sipped a hearty glass of Malbec with my moon.
Further south I hit Santiago, the capital and gateway to South America. I’d previously visited Santiago but ventured no further than the airport — an eight-hour layover giving me no more than a painful sneak peek at the beauty of the mountains teasing me beyond those four walls. This time, I made sure to spend a few days to unearth the fascinating history of the city, wandered along wide streets of indigo where the Jacaranda’s bloomed, shopped for shoes in super cool boutiques and had dinner with a Chilean colleague and shared wine and stories of travels.
Valparaiso, not far from Santiago, is a historic port town, coloured with a contemporary creative edge. The bold palette of colour, steep hills and bohemia would rival the Haight Ashbury district of San Francisco.
Central Chile is wine country. Chilean wine is world class and there are some excellent cellar doors and wine bars all throughout the country.
Further south and you’ve basically got rivers, lakes and volcanoes. Pablo Neruda claims the Chilean forest is the best in the world. The Southern tip contains Patagonia and the Torres Del Paine National Park. This for me was one of the most incredible landscapes on earth. I hiked approximately 4 hours with a local guide who carried his fancy camera equipment and nifty coffee maker through the forest. We passed by gaucho’s, studied the lichen on trees and spotted condors soaring high above. Arriving at the top of Torres Del Paine’s granite towers we sat perched on a picnic blanket, sipping coffee and soaking in these remarkable vistas. I stayed 4 nights in the park, each day heading out for some exploring, hikes and photography.
If you have an interest in Chile you must watch this video of astronaut Leland Melvin reading Pablo Neruda’s poem ‘The Chilean Forest’.